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I bought a brand new oil pressure switch and completely rebuilt an engine... and the dang switch is leaking from the threads. I snugged it a bit tighter and it didn't do the trick.

Since it is a /5, there is no crush washer that comes with that model.

I bought a new switch and I want the leak gone.

I'm planning on using the new switch, teflon tape, and ... should I add a crush washer? Is there any harm in using a crush washer?

Or do you think the teflon tape will do the trick?

-Josh

Be careful using the teflon tape, it makes it WAY too easy to over torque it. I'd look at the gap between the switch and the case, there really isn't a lot of room in there, so a crush washer might hold it out too far or not crush enough? Worth a try, if you have something close enough. It would be a cheap fix. I don't have a case with a switch removed, but it does look like a machined surface. If the surfaces are not parallel or smooth, perhaps a rubber o-ring would do the trick? Either way, I'd count the number of turned to get switch seated and then repeat with the o-ring or washer...

Bamboo 812 - Off topic - I just love that image that you use as a signature. truly. who shot it?

On topic - I was thinking the same thing about the crush washer creating a gap or not sticking into the case far enough.

I didn't think teflon tape would make it easy to over-torque though. Usually it makes it harder to screw something in... but you would stop as soon as the resistance got greater as the switch reaches the end of it's install.

And you're sure it's leaking by the threads? Sometimes these switches are known to leak through the body...the fix is to coat the part around the electrical leads with a build up of JB Weld.

Kurt in S.A.

I did that to my neutral switch. I'm not 100% positive it is the threads due to the amount of oil that is sprayed around that area while riding. But it looks like the threads is the cause...

Kurt in S.A. wrote:And you're sure it's leaking by the threads? Sometimes these switches are known to leak through the body...the fix is to coat the part around the electrical leads with a build up of JB Weld.

Kurt in S.A.

Before doing anything I'd clean that area thoroughly and lightly dust it with something and take it for a short ride. Only then will you know what needs to be done. Usual suspects first... Regards the photo, I have no idea who she is or who took the photo. Is it possible this is the same woman and bike with the photographer posing?

Yep, usually via the switch internals...this is what mine looked like. Once that oil gets hot it makes a mess via the tiniest escape route.
Is the JB weld idea meant to fix the leak or prevent the leak in the first place?



It does look like the same model in the two pix.

SteveD wrote:Yep, usually via the switch internals...this is what mine looked like. Once that oil gets hot it makes a mess via the tiniest escape route.
Is the JB weld idea meant to fix the leak or prevent the leak in the first place?[/color]

On the neutral switch, you do the JB weld trick before you install it to prevent it from leaking.

I posted a "how to" here:

http://beemersandbits.com/2013/06/5-spe ... prep-work/

It can be hard to locate metric Teflon tape in the US of A.

Duane Ausherman wrote:It can be hard to locate metric Teflon tape in the US of A.

No, Duane, it's everywhere now. I know "back in the day" it was probably a lot more difficult to find.

The scariest possibility is that your case is cracked from a previous overtorqueing. Add that unpleasant possibility to the rest of possible places it could be leaking from. Tapered threads seal much better with teflon tape; I wouldn't be afraid of it, but do be aware that you only need to tighten it enough to not leak. I don't think the switch is designed strong enough for a crush washer - it would probably just bend the switch body.

It's probably just the threads . . . or a bad switch . . .

Yeah, lets just keep thinking that.