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Is it better to remove the rear wheel or leave it in place attached to the swing arm?
How about the battery box?
1984 R100

Thanx for your thoughts

Leave the wheel in place.

Undo the top two nuts on the battery holder and bend the holder backwards (rubber mounts) when required to pull the trans.
No need to pull the battery.
You can pull the rear wheel and swing arm etc backwards with a rope, and tie it off somewhere.
I just use my foot to hold the wheel back.

ME 109 wrote:Leave the wheel in place.


You can pull the rear wheel and swing arm etc backwards with a rope, and tie it off somewhere.
I just use my foot to hold the wheel back.

Wouldn't the procedure be easier if the wheel was removed or is it that it easier to keep the whole assembly together. (rear wheel and swing arm)?

When I did my main seal I removed the rear wheel and swing arm assembly completely along with the battery box I like to have as much room to move as poss, if I was in a workshop situation where time is money I probably wouldn't have

Zombie Master wrote:

ME 109 wrote:Leave the wheel in place.


You can pull the rear wheel and swing arm etc backwards with a rope, and tie it off somewhere.
I just use my foot to hold the wheel back.

Wouldn't the procedure be easier if the wheel was removed or is it that it easier to keep the whole assembly together. (rear wheel and swing arm)?

Easier to keep it all together, with my technique.
At the right moment I kick the rear wheel backwards and hold it there with my foot on the ground. That of course pulls the swing arm back.
I bend the battery holder back at the right time while holding the tranny with two hands, working the clutch pushrod backwards sufficiently to remove the tranny.
That takes maybe thirty seconds to do.
Tying the battery holder back would make it easier.

Having done it a few times helps tho.

Use the rear wheel to tie a rope to for pulling it all back. That will be a good help to you.
The clutch pushrod running through the tranny will not allow the removal pf the tranny without it being moved backwards. I use the spline of the clutch plate to push the pushrod against, while moving the tranny backward and forward. Bit by bit, the pushrod slides back and the tranny can be removed.

Good stuff thanx, so the clutch pushrod, doesn't have to come out first? Isn't it the clutch rod spline that we're cleaning/lubing?

I remove the tranny with the clutch push rod in place. The push rod just needs to move rearwards to clear the clutch friction disc, which allows the tranny to be removed.
Years ago when I was pulling my tranny seemingly every other day, 45 minutes and it was on the ground.

ME 109 wrote:I remove the tranny with the clutch push rod in place. The push rod just needs to move rearwards to clear the clutch friction disc, which allows the tranny to be removed.
Years ago when I was pulling my tranny seemingly every other day, 45 minutes and it was on the ground.

Practice makes perfect

ME 109 wrote:I remove the tranny with the clutch push rod in place. The push rod just needs to move rearwards to clear the clutch friction disc, which allows the tranny to be removed.
Years ago when I was pulling my tranny seemingly every other day, 45 minutes and it was on the ground.

Do you unbolt the shocks?

If you are only going in to grease the input shaft you can do as Jeff suggests and leave it all together. I think it's worth removing the shocks and the final drive every other time. Four bolts each. This gives the opportunity to check the swingarm operation before you detach it, and also when reassembling. It's worth reading Snowbum's epistle on this.