clutch lever adjustment

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Duane Ausherman
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Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 12:39 pm
Location: Galt California
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Re: clutch lever adjustment

Post by Duane Ausherman »

I made one of those for my VW bike some 45+ years ago. One must keep the clutch very carefully adjusted due to the mechanical advantage, it is more critical, but not complicated. The clutch rod only has 1/2 the travel.
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jimmyg
Posts: 133
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 12:04 pm

Re: clutch lever adjustment

Post by jimmyg »

if its breaking at the lever as you indicated, I'm guessing that the cable ferrule is not rotating properly when the lever is pulled. See if when you pull the lever, that the ferrule rotates correctly. IOW, the cable should always maintain a straight path into the lever assy.

Years ago, I was going through cables on my R90s, breaking at the lever. I found some burrs in the hole that holds the ferrule, which was preventing it from rotating properly. Cleaned that up and hasn't happened since.

jimmyg
disston
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:39 pm

Re: clutch lever adjustment

Post by disston »

BMW clutch cables are being made by a different company or maybe just a different machine these days. The swaged ferrule on the end of the cable is likely binding in the nipple holder (part shown above). The ferrule is swaged with hard sharp corners. These can be rounded off with a file. Once installed the end of the cable must be able to rotate in the nipple holder. The way it is made it binds.

Of course grease everything. But don't put grease or oil into the cable sheath. Grease only the moving parts at the handlebar lever and the throw out arm on the rear of the trans.

The adjustment is made with the 201 mm distance at the rear of the trans and is important but the adjustment is not why your cables are breaking.
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