We did use a piece of glass to check stanchion parallelism. We put the sliders on (no springs, no oil) and put the axle in with spacers to emulate the wheel being in place, and tightened the triple clamps. Doing so didn't seem to introduce drag. Then we tightened the fork brace which also didn't seem to add drag.
Is there drag? Of course. I have no way of quantifying it, and if I did so (e.g. by using a spring scale to measure the force it took to get the sliders moving), I'd have no way of knowing what to do with the numbers.
I'll check the fit of the front axle. I it were too "snug," I think I would have noticed that.
I'm pretty sure I do need to lessen the spring force, either preload or rate.
I try to keep in mind that I don't want to fix something that isn't broken. However stiff the front suspension is, if it doesn't hurt comfort (it doesn't) or stability (tbd), then I probably shouldn't worry about it.
90S front-rear attitude
Re: 90S front-rear attitude
Abstruse1
Dallas, USA
Blonds aren't the only airheads.
Dallas, USA
Blonds aren't the only airheads.
Re: 90S front-rear attitude
The glass will show parallel or not, in one plane. The distance between the fork legs from top to bottom needs to be within .1mm, according to my bmw manual.
Prior to the fork brace being fitted, the axle should spin quite freely, without the wheel fitted. No spacers to substitute the fitted wheel should be used.
If the axle binds when the fork brace bolts are tightened, the fork brace needs tweaking until all bolts can be tightened without affecting the axle's free spinning.
It can take some time to achieve this.
Basically, tightening the fork brace bolts with the fork brace fitted, should have no affect on the free spinning axle.
Turning the glass upside down and back to front will show how true the glass is.
The free spinning axle is a crock of shit, without first being able to spin freely in each leg, one at a time.
Burs on a slider or axle can bind the axle. This needs to be addressed prior to determining the free spinning axle through two sliders.
Prior to the fork brace being fitted, the axle should spin quite freely, without the wheel fitted. No spacers to substitute the fitted wheel should be used.
If the axle binds when the fork brace bolts are tightened, the fork brace needs tweaking until all bolts can be tightened without affecting the axle's free spinning.
It can take some time to achieve this.
Basically, tightening the fork brace bolts with the fork brace fitted, should have no affect on the free spinning axle.
Turning the glass upside down and back to front will show how true the glass is.
The free spinning axle is a crock of shit, without first being able to spin freely in each leg, one at a time.
Burs on a slider or axle can bind the axle. This needs to be addressed prior to determining the free spinning axle through two sliders.
Lord of the Bings
Re: 90S front-rear attitude
After grinding half my wallet into powder due to a wham bam "wobble" (slam), I would suggest that you attach a steering damper when experimenting to the degree that you are.
It seems that the stock fork, perfectly set up (see ME109's posts) is actually a pretty good set-up. I had cut my "plastic pipe" spacers down to less than half the length they were when I got the bike. Just the mention of those spacers makes me worry for you.
Let's say you are riding down the road at about freeway speed (65-75); do you sense the fork lowers are in constant up/down movement or that they don't move much? I would say, after my freeway break dancing exhibition, that one is better off with a "soft" feeling fork than with a fork that seems to rock back and forth instead of up and down.
At least set your stock steering damper to the high setting. I think that's "2". Mine went fine for years before ejecting me onto my head.
Also, I hate to sound like a Nervous Ned, but while you're experimenting (at least) wear all the shit all the time. Even official boots and certainly the pants with knee protection. You don't want to learn what a pain it is to have messed up knees. I am thankful I had on good gear!
Best to you.
Chuey
It seems that the stock fork, perfectly set up (see ME109's posts) is actually a pretty good set-up. I had cut my "plastic pipe" spacers down to less than half the length they were when I got the bike. Just the mention of those spacers makes me worry for you.
Let's say you are riding down the road at about freeway speed (65-75); do you sense the fork lowers are in constant up/down movement or that they don't move much? I would say, after my freeway break dancing exhibition, that one is better off with a "soft" feeling fork than with a fork that seems to rock back and forth instead of up and down.
At least set your stock steering damper to the high setting. I think that's "2". Mine went fine for years before ejecting me onto my head.
Also, I hate to sound like a Nervous Ned, but while you're experimenting (at least) wear all the shit all the time. Even official boots and certainly the pants with knee protection. You don't want to learn what a pain it is to have messed up knees. I am thankful I had on good gear!
Best to you.
Chuey