Gonna pull transmission

[Rob]

These are long-term consumables, of course. Do you feel they fulfilled their contract ?

I know, I know - shocks AND a clutch?

[jagarra]

I always seem to do that, jump the gun on a item I may not need, then have to buy one I really do. The clutch parts looked like they did their duty till the end. It was working OK, but from looking at the measurements, that wasn't going to last much longer. All the friction surfaces had some grooves, not deep, but one could see from the very edges that they were worn down. I ordered the whole 4 piece set. I couldn't find any part numbers on the friction plate or the pressure plate behind it. All I could find on the friction was a couple of letters and the 2/73 date.

[SteveD]

Pulled the clutch assemblies out today. Made a flywheel lock and bought three 8x1.0x35 mm bolts long enough that I could use nuts on them to back off the pressure. Had mixed results. the clutch disc had a 2/73 date code on it, thickness was 4.66mm book says min is 4.5mm . Outside plate and spring assembly are the current numbers, haven't measured how much taper is worn into their surfaces yet. Spring height is between 18.00-17.5mm book says 19.0 +-.5. Not looking great on using anything again.

Grant and me talking about this just 10 minutes ago as part of getting to the rms.
Can you tell us about the flywheel lock? I have some idea, but recent experience is always handy.
The fiche don't describe the size of the clutch bolts. When getting something longer to ease out the clutch, I'm wondering if they're the same size on 81 models?

[Kurt in S.A.]

When doing my clutch change on the /7, I used a thick steel bar with a number of holes in it to hold the clutch/flywheel steady. One hole slipped over the upper right stud that the transmission slips onto...this is when viewing the rear of the engine. Another hole was lined up with one of the allen bolts and I slipped the allen wrench through the hole into the head of the allen bolt. Now I could begin to loosen any of the other exposed allen bolts holding the clutch pack onto the flywheel. In order to get to the other bolts, I just continued to move the flywheel around so an allen bolt lined up with a free hole in the bar. Also, when one or more bolts have been removed from clutch pack, this hole can also be used to slip the allen wrench in to stabilize the flywheel. Hope that makes sense.

Kurt in S.A.

[jagarra]

Here are some pictures of the set up. I used an old lathe bit that had a nice taper point on it and welded it to a piece of flat stock. Drilled a hole in the flat stock and mounted it using an existing hole for the tranny mount.



Here is a picture with it set up to remove with the lock in place.

[SteveD]

Looks the goods. Thanks.

[disston]

I think your clutch is good to go as long as it was working when you pulled it out and the parts are not too far tapered. Don't think that 4.66 is too close to the minimum. 4.5 is the minimum and some will go lower than that. It's been done.

When they go you have to replace everything. That's both pressure plates, the spring and a clutch disk.

I would ruff the pressure plate surfaces with 120 or 150 grit sandpaper when putting it back together. Just enough all around to make the surface ruff. This technique is used on all reused clutch parts and new ones too.

There is an alternative to the all new parts if you needed a clutch. This company and their service has been used many times by Airhead riders. The cost is only around $200 plus shipping. They are Southland Clutch. Here is a link;

http://www.southlandclutch.com/

They will grind the pressure surfaces parallel and install an over sized friction material on the disk. You then still need a spring but the total is 50% of what new costs.

They do many types of vehicle clutches from the biggest on the road and off road in mining to much smaller. They do many Airheads.

EDIT; I see now I am a couple of days too late in my post. Sorry. I'll try to pay better attention.

[jagarra]

Clutch is in and today I put the tranny back in the bike. Now I have a couple of assembly questions. In the book it says something about minding the tab that is on the left top bolt holding the tranny in. The picture looks like it is pointed toward the bottom, if that is correct not sure what that accomplishes, but I would like clarification as the picture is pretty small. Next question is on the driveshaft boot at the back of the tranny. Is it easier to unscrew the clamps so they can be worked around the boot when it is installed or leave them screwed together and slip them over the boot before you try to install it. Since the nut is captive I am leaning on attaching them after the boot is situated.

[Airbear]

Hi Jagarra
The tab is for locating the left hand airbox half. It points upwards.

I find it best to undo the boot clamps completely. You can even leave them off and open them out to refit after each end of the boot is on. You need all the room available to get the boot on, and it is easiest to have the battery tray removed as well. Actually, the last time I did this the boot went on really easily so I gave myself a greasy pat on the back. Have fun.

[jagarra]

Thanks Charlie. I went that route too, but I clamped the driveshaft end while playing moving the other side about while tightening the bolts. I had made a hook for grabbing the edges to slide them back into position and stretching the boot over things, worked out slick. Adjusted the swing arm to center, torqued the pivots to about 10 ft. lbs. (won't go any lower)
About that tab?