I think you just redeemed and justified my procrastination! I feel better already.
This is great thank you for sharing the high res pics. Undoubtedly will be useful for anyone who finds there way here, and will definitely be something I look for as I go. I suppose this can be caused by the gasket ring wearing down? Allowing that bit of slop?
Clutch woes 1976 R60
Re: Clutch woes 1976 R60
Eric "Opus" Carlsen
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6
- Airbear
- Posts: 2887
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:02 am
- Location: Oz, lower right hand side, in a bit, just over the lumpy part.
Re: Clutch woes 1976 R60
The throw-out bearing for gearboxes of this vintage is a silly radial needle type. This replaced a more sensible radial ball bearing in the /5 boxes, and was replaced by something different in the later boxes. If the bearing seizes and spins it will gouge a groove into the bore and the bearing will snag thereafter, probably intermittently at first then getting worse over time. It will produce the symptoms you list.opus451 wrote:I think you just redeemed and justified my procrastination! I feel better already.
This is great thank you for sharing the high res pics. Undoubtedly will be useful for anyone who finds there way here, and will definitely be something I look for as I go. I suppose this can be caused by the gasket ring wearing down? Allowing that bit of slop?
This was a new one for me and I have since found another gearbox with the same problem. Each time you are in the area - pulling the gearbox to grease splines or whatever - it is good to check the bearing and bore.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
Re: Clutch woes 1976 R60
Right right, ok, I remember reading somewhere how the piston acts as the race for the bearing. I can see how that all could come undone given the right circumstances.
So when replacing the bearing, one should go with the most recent part number. The ball type.
So when replacing the bearing, one should go with the most recent part number. The ball type.
Eric "Opus" Carlsen
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6
Re: Clutch woes 1976 R60
That brass fitting is an elegant fix.
And maybe gives less than aluminum?
And maybe gives less than aluminum?
Eric "Opus" Carlsen
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6
- Airbear
- Posts: 2887
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:02 am
- Location: Oz, lower right hand side, in a bit, just over the lumpy part.
Re: Clutch woes 1976 R60
I think they may be a different size. The radial needle type in our vintage works fine with the occasional replacement and proper maintenance/checking. Sitting at traffic lights in gear with the clutch pulled in is likely to add to the problem.opus451 wrote:Right right, ok, I remember reading somewhere how the piston acts as the race for the bearing. I can see how that all could come undone given the right circumstances.
So when replacing the bearing, one should go with the most recent part number. The ball type.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
Re: Clutch woes 1976 R60
Ok. Looking at the schemes on Max, the newer ballbearing also I believe is matched to the new piston.
So needle it is. And will create that regular TLC regiment.
Especially given the unfortunately constant feathering of the clutch in this metropolis, necessary evil.
So needle it is. And will create that regular TLC regiment.
Especially given the unfortunately constant feathering of the clutch in this metropolis, necessary evil.
Eric "Opus" Carlsen
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6
A Brooklyn native
1976 R60/6