71 R50/5 fork oil change

[jdvorchak]

I'm getting ready to change fork oil on the R50 and got the right side upper fork cap off. The left side seems to have spring pressure! Is that normal?

I'm getting ready to pull the handlebars off so the cap will come off as it jammed up under the handle bar. Everything I'm seeing in parts fiche and Clymers manual says it should just scree off so I'm wondering if it didn't seize onto the nut that holds the spring.

Thoughts?

[jdvorchak]

The cap was stuck in the top "nut". I tried to heat the aluminum cap but realized that is the wrong thing as it screws into the top fork nut. So I put it in the freezer for 1/2 hour and it came right apart. So this is a non issue.

[Duane Ausherman]

Wow, that sounds like a real pain. Now that the hard part is over, the fork oil will drain out in just 3-4 seconds, so be sure to have something to catch the deluge.

Be very careful to check fork stiction before and after that job. It is very easy to get the forks out of alignment.

[jdvorchak]

Thanks Duane. Yeah nothing came out until I pulled the other fork nut and pushed up on the stud on the bottom to lift the spring and dampener then it all came out. 7 OZ in the right side and 5 OZ in the left side. I replace it with 10 oz (265 cc) each side. That is the amount the Clymer manual and the owner manual said to use. The owner provided the 7.5 w fork oil. Said for BMW on the label but I don't remember brand name. Actually the oil didn't look that bad and only slight smell.

Good point on stiction. Since I left the axle and lower pinch bolt tightened I doubt that anything moved but I can easily loosen everything and bounce it once I get the handle bars back on. Process I use is loosen everything, bounce the front end start at the top and tighten fork nut, then pinch bolts then axle. Top to bottom. Do you suggest doing it that way?

[ME 109]

Do you suggest doing it that way?

Oh, for a popcorn eating smilie.