Tranny Neutral Switch Question again

[Jeff in W.C.]

I really hate to ask this, but I searched and could not find the answer. I know the question has been asked and answered. I just can't find it.

I'm feeling like I'm taking two steps forward and one step back in getting my bike roadworthy again. About two months ago, I completed a spline lube and had the tranny out and everything. The neutral switch was not leaking at that time, but it is now. Can the neutral switch be replaced by unbolting the tranny and swingarm and moving it back some. Or, does the tranny have to come out again. Please say the former not the later.

Thanks,

[Kurt in S.A.]

There should be a spacer there through which the engine mount bolt runs. Support the engine and remove the bolt. Carefully, wedge out the spacer...you'll have full access to the neutral switch. To reinstall the spacer, chamfer the edges a bit and through it in the freezer for an hour or so. Then quickly put it back in place and install the bolt, torque to spec.

Kurt in S.A.

[Zombie Master]

There should be a spacer there through which the engine mount bolt runs. Support the engine and remove the bolt. Carefully, wedge out the spacer...you'll have full access to the neutral switch. To reinstall the spacer, chamfer the edges a bit and through it in the freezer for an hour or so. Then quickly put it back in place and install the bolt, torque to spec.

Kurt in S.A.

Just beautiful Kurt!

[Jeff in W.C.]

Thanks for the reply. Now I'll just have to find time to replace it.

[jjwithers]

I just did the process on my 1977 R100S. Took maybe an hour, maximum. I was adjusting valves and other things at the same time so i didn't really keep track of time per job.
Draining the tranny fluid (when you know it isn't ready to be replaced yet) was the bummer.
It helps if you have a spare engine stud lying around. I used it to drive out the old stud, and then kept both studs hanging out of the frame to keep the engine suspended, but to knock out the center spacer.

[PAS]

I recently replace mine also 81 R100RT with the brass switch. Loosen the front mount also to allow the frame to relax. Many people apply some sealer or JB Weld at the base of the tab to prevent future leakage.

[ME 109]

After I finally worked out that my bike needed the earlier switch with the straight down terminals, I promptly broke the switch when installing the tranny.
I actually pulled the switch apart and reassembled using jb weld. No leaks after a couple of years. Still a mystery to me tho why that switch is needed in my '81.

[PAS]

ME109, Me thinks it does a fair job of plugging the hole.

[ME 109]

ME109, Me thinks it does a fair job of plugging the hole.

Lol, I mean the earlier switch!

[disston]

ME 109 said; "Still a mystery to me tho why that switch is needed in my '81."

Which switch is used depends on which shift cam is in the trans. Earlier bikes had a bump on the cam and later bikes were a depression. So the switches work in a reverse manner from each other. Only reason I can see you have this idiosyncrasy. But it's not really a problem if it doesn't leak.