Upgrade to Floating Rotors - Save $$$ (How To)

[SteveD]

http://www.wemoto.com.au/bikes/bmw/r_10 ... ont_kyoto/

[Roy Gavin]

You really want to see 420 grade stainless nominated.
Unless you regularly;y get the disks over 500C, then you want something better.

I have the Wemoto Kyoto disk on my R100 GS , it works at least as well as OEM and it is a full floater.
Drilling out the existing SS bobbins was surprisingly easy, never seen SS as soft and it didnt work harden.

My G/S came with a unbranded full floating 320mm wave disk , with round head allen bolts in place or the OEM rivets. to hold the inner half of the full floater.
Not a lot of clearance anywhere so quite a bit shimming required, and what clears when the bike is on the center stand doesn't necessarily clear under hard use!
The disk is now close to its minimum thickness, from the wrong side, but I can't trace a similar 320 mm floater - all I can find is a solid disk which, complete with a center and caliper bracket, will cost me over $500- landed.
So if anyone has a link to a 320 mm disk which fits to the OEM center please post it!

[SteveD]

So if anyone has a link to a 320 mm disk which fits to the OEM center please post it!

I bought an Arashi rear disc for my K1200r which has been fine. It was a third of the price of most others. Have a look thru here and see if there's anything that might work.
https://www.aliexpress.com/premium/320- ... isViewCP=y

[Roy Gavin]

Will do - I have one of their full floaters on my Funduro , better than OEM quality for, at the time, under $A100!

[SteveD]

The discs on my R100RS were getting a little worn. Not as bad as this old spare hanging in the shed, but thin nonetheless.


I bought some new discs and needed to remove the old. Easy enough. 10 rivets on each disc. A new metal grinding disc, carefully line the base of the rivet up and go. Takes about 15 seconds per rivet, tidy up and punch the old rivet thru. I did this from the inner side of the disc holder as it's more out of sight in case I gouged something. Slightly out of focus but there's a nice straight cut almost all the way thru the cap of the rivet.



I used an old brake pad holder to punch the remnants out. Perfect size. No trouble whatsoever...all came out easy with 1-2 good whacks, without heat.

Must've been a rear last time.

A soak in vinegar, some scrubbing with scotchbrite, some more soaking. I'm off to buy some simple green to soak them in, then they'll get some make up for motorcycles, the rub 'n buff treatment.

[SteveD]

Two hours soaking in orange Simple Green? Followed with some vigorous brushing with a brass brush. Reasonably clean now. One was much worse than the other though.



...and r 'n b applied with a glove.
One stills shows how filthy it was between the 5 inner holes, but that remains out of sight.


Next to mount the discs to the cleaned carriers.

[SteveD]

Here are the discs all done. I got these from wemoto in Oz for <$OZ300.
Unsure where they're made...google suggests they're French.



Just need to do the 60"lbs tightening and install to the bike....with new pads.

These were $OZ141 EACH.
Other prices:
OEM discs & carrier from Motobins are ukp115 plus post ~$OZ210 plus post.
Same at Motorworks ukp118
EME disc & carrier $US199.99 is $OZ294
Munich BMW Perth $OZ250 for floaters, $350 for oem with carrier.

[SteveD]

Floating rotors allow the disk to self center between the brake pads and result in a couple of benefits. They will reduce distortion from thermal stresses induced by uneven thermal expansion under load (less warpage). They will also extend the life of your disk rotors and pads by forcing more even wear. If you need to replace your rotors, have the right tools, and 45 minutes it's sensible to make this conversion for both performance and financial reasons.
...
The fasteners have nylon lock nuts, tighten them down in a criss-cross pattern until they just begin to bite. Go back and repeat the pattern tightening them down wrist tight. Finally repeat the pattern torquing each to 60 inch pounds. Do not disassemble after engaging the nylon lock nuts with the threads. Locking nuts should not be reused if removed as they loose some of their locking ability, not good on vital parts you don't want coming loose. If you disassemble them, replace the nylon locking nuts with new ones before reassembly and installation.

Enjoy!

Still enjoying these 0m3nc0w

I'm waiting for new pads before I trial mine. The rear has an EBC floating disc which has been fine. I do intend to replace the nylock nuts and retorque them when I next remove the wheel. I did find a couple loose recently.

[chasbmw]

EBC make good floating rotors for airheads , not expensive and they work well.

Much better than the replacement discs sold by Brembo, which have warped on my bikes

[pioppiny_81]

Hello everyone
Surfing on the internet I found this discussion and I subscibed to the forum to ask if I can put ferodo rotors on my 1983 R100 with brembo p08 calipers, looking at the caliper from the front, I seem to see that in the radial direction there is little space and I would not like the washers (that are larger in diameter than old pins) to collide with the caliper
I didn't understand if steveD did the job on a 1982 rt or not.

thankyou all