Yesterday, after about an hour-long ~40-mile ride (with one stop for about 10 minutes at around mile 32, with no issues this instance of starting the bike), the bike was left to sit for about 15 minutes before I was ready to shove off again (thankfully this happened at home, and not on the stop at mile 32 described above).
When I went to attempt to start the bike when the starter button was first pressed at any given attempt, a small electrical click (not nearly loud enough to be the solenoid itself, perhaps the relay?) was heard, the starter did *not* even attempt to start the bike, and the "Brake Failure Imminent" light would glow for the duration of me holding the starter button. I was bummed, but in a bit of a time crunch, so I left it be for then, ready to diagnose the issue later in the evening when I returned home.
However, when I returned home (after about 2 hours gone), the bike started up just fine through 2 different test attempts.
Again, about 10 minutes ago, the bike started just fine through multiple attempts, with no signs of the issues experienced during that brief period described above.
Any ideas on what might have caused the weird snafu with the starter not working for *only* that one moment?
When I was attempting the start and failing to find success, it was in neutral (or at least the neutral light was on), the clutch was engaged (tried it disengaged, as well), and the battery had plenty of power (as noted by the later attempts yesterday and today at getting the bike to start again).
Is this pointing to the solenoid or are there other avenues I should traverse in tandem or instead of a possibly bad solenoid? Do they operate differently at different temps?
Starter Solenoid Question
Re: Starter Solenoid Question
The best time to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical problem is when it's happening.
It's probably just a loose battery or frame ground terminal, corroded relay connector, etc.
The good thing about our simplistic bikes is that they can be push started easily (or kick-started if applicable) so you'll never need a tow because of a non functioning starter motor.
Don't take this endearing airhead feature for granted.
Tons of new-ish-er bikes cannot be push started because of their 'slipper' clutches and most can't be (easily) hot wired because of the anti-theft and computer controlled engine management electronics.
It's probably just a loose battery or frame ground terminal, corroded relay connector, etc.
The good thing about our simplistic bikes is that they can be push started easily (or kick-started if applicable) so you'll never need a tow because of a non functioning starter motor.
Don't take this endearing airhead feature for granted.
Tons of new-ish-er bikes cannot be push started because of their 'slipper' clutches and most can't be (easily) hot wired because of the anti-theft and computer controlled engine management electronics.
Mechanic from Hell
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
"I remember every raging second of it...
My bike was on fire, the road was on fire, and I was on fire.
It was the best ride ever!"
Re: Starter Solenoid Question
If I hadn't been in a hurry, and already in the safety of my own carport, I absolutely would have thought nothing of jump-starting it and moved on. But in the thought of not wanting to be stranded somewhere on it, I opted to finish my nightly agenda via 4-wheel automobile instead.gspd wrote: ↑Fri Jul 02, 2021 7:31 pm The best time to troubleshoot an intermittent electrical problem is when it's happening.
It's probably just a loose battery or frame ground terminal, corroded relay connector, etc.
The good thing about our simplistic bikes is that they can be push started easily (or kick-started if applicable) so you'll never need a tow because of a non functioning starter motor.
Don't take this endearing airhead feature for granted.
Tons of new-ish-er bikes cannot be push started because of their 'slipper' clutches and most can't be (easily) hot wired because of the anti-theft and computer controlled engine management electronics.
That said, I will have to take a closer look at connections. It's definitely possible there are nooks and crannies I haven't looked at yet since owning this bike, and it's probably about time to check those places.
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Re: Starter Solenoid Question
Whatever you do, it's always best to remove the ground wire first. A must if you are pulling off the alternator cover.
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Re: Starter Solenoid Question
I've had that happen many times. Just click the starter switch a few times and the solenoid engages. Solenoid is going out, but can last a long time like that.
Mike
Mike
67 R50/2 w/R100 drivetrain and Ural S/C
65 R60/2
76 R90S 154K Miles
77 R100RS 127K Miles
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle sidecar
65 R60/2
76 R90S 154K Miles
77 R100RS 127K Miles
70 Triumph w/Spirit Eagle sidecar
Re: Starter Solenoid Question
Thanks for the tip. It did seem kind of odd.
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Re: Starter Solenoid Question
I could actually be a number of things. Before shelling out on a replacement solenoid, make sure all of the connections at the starter relay (under the tank) are clean. You might also want to have a look at the spade connection on the rear of the solenoid (and the other solenoid connections for that matter). The starter relay is also a suspect but that's more difficult to establish if it's an intermittent fault.
Rob
Rob
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Re: Starter Solenoid Question
A while back I had a similar set of problems. The Mechanical from Hell (GSPD) suggested an aftermarket starter. Cost me $115. CDN delivered, and cured my problem. I also saved 7pds. Probably is you solenoid, and there are a number of ways to fix it.
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