Removing an intake port

[Rapid Dog]

One of my new heads came without an intake port. The local shop couldn't remove the old one.
They used a proper spanner and a torch. No coulld budge.

Any idea what the trick is?

[vanzen]

Typically, that will do it !
The stubs are threaded and often a sealer is used –
No telling what the PO might have used for sealer ...
Not much help, but I'd go at it again with the same technique (heat and torque)
and hope that it will finally work.

[guy]

put the head in the frezzer then try warming the spiget.
Guy

[Ken in Oklahoma]

put the head in the frezzer then try warming the spiget.

Don't you mean that the other way around Guy? You want the head to be warmer than the spigot. That way the head will be larger than it usually is and the spigot, being cooler, will be relatively smaller.



Ken

[Garnet]

put the head in the frezzer then try warming the spiget.

Don't you mean that the other way around Guy? You want the head to be warmer than the spigot. That way the head will be larger than it usually is and the spigot, being cooler, will be relatively smaller.

Ken

I would go with Ken.

BTW I have a spigot that come loose when the bike is very hot, but is rock solid when cold, or even at normal temps.

[George Ryals]

Preheat your oven to 200 Deg F. put the (cleaned) head in for about an hour, take it out with oven mitts and screw thw spigot out. (Aluminum expands about 10 times (I think) more than steel) OR Just buy a new spigot.

[Duane Ausherman]

It really should come out with the entire head quite hot. Don't be afraid of 275 F. In the worst case, use some of that spray cooler to shrink the steel even more.

[Frog]

I agree with the oven idea. I believe that it takes about 400 degrees to free up high strength thread locker. Evenly heating the head is probably best for it. The expansion of the aluminum should break the bond.

These things are annoying, but take it one step at a time and work carefully. It will work.

[Airbear]

A cautionary note on page 132 of my Clymer manual -

"NOTE
There may be a residual oil or solvent odor left in the oven after heating the cylinder head. If you use a household oven, first check with the person who uses the oven for food preparation to avoid getting into trouble."

It's nice to know that Mr Clymer is looking after our interests.
You have been warned.

[mattcfish]

Yes, the oven method works everytime. I think you can heat the head much hotter than 200F. The combustion chamber gets way hotter. The even heating of an oven should keep things from warping. Anybody know the max temp to heat a set of heads to? I changed my valve guides a few years back, and I remember heating them over 500F with no ill effects. It sure made the job easy. A friend told me to go as hot as the oven will go.

Put the heads in an old pan to keep any oil from dripping. Make sure your spouse is gone for the weekend.
Tell her you burnt your dinner again. She'll believe that.