I just removed my first valve spring!

[Deleted User 287]

You are right Major - the brass fitting worked just fine. I think I could have even cut it without buying a new blade for the hacksaw!

Since this was my first time, I began with my old L-S head that got torn up in the crash. The exhaust spring looks rust-free, so far.

My first question - do these springs have a top/bottom orientation of which I should be keeping track?

I had to compress the spring completely before the collets would come loose. (I will assume for now that that is normal, seeings how there is oil holding them together).

And the upper spring plate (at least on this valve) has rust on it from pulling duty as bunny cage protector.
I will clean the spring(s) with acetone (I have some on hand) and examine them closely in the daylight with magnification.
I won't use the acetone until I hear back from you guys, though.

I have only done the exhaust valve as I am typing this, and while the valve rotates freely and moves in and out through some portion of it's range, it doesn't seem to want to slide right out.
Either this is normal, or it is a result of the impact.
It was on the exhaust stroke when the crash occured (see 2nd picture).





Thanks for all your help & encouragement, folks.

If the final drive resealing goes this easy, I'll be in like flint!

[Major Softie]

Acetone will work, but is not necessary. If I was going to use a classic solvent, I'd just go with kerosene. Lower flashpoint, and easier on gloves and your skin. Also, you can use a fine scrub pad with kerosene, but I think acetone will eat the pad - not sure though.

P.S. In like "Flynn." It is a reference to the bit of controversy for his bedding an underage girl.

[Deleted User 287]

Cool, I will get some kerosene! Thanks!

[Deleted User 287]

At least I was smart enough to wear eye protection!

No, nothing hit my safety glasses, but the solid end of the clamp slid off the tool on my final valve disassembly.
And I have "temporarily misplaced" one collet half.

It was odd - the two valves on the head with the damage came apart with no stress.
On the undamaged head, both the intake and exhaust required some "oomph" and then they when "PING!" before they came loose from the collets.

The small end of the brass fitting "tool" is tapered , so before I use it again I think I will find a way to either flatten the end touching the C-clamp, or I will cap it with something.

I suspect re-assembly will not be such a joy, getting the collets to stay in place while releasing the spring pressure.
I will probably enlist some help for that part.
Do you think I could risk open the window a little more?





And thank you "Pop" Cramer (my maternal grandfather) for the 6" Cincinnati Tool C-clamp!

[Deleted User 287]

P.S. In like "Flynn." It is a reference to the bit of controversy for his bedding an underage girl.

Interesting! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In_like_Flynn

But I'm not totally in error:

"[Michael] Quinion also notes that the 1967 film title "In Like Flint" is a play on the term, and that has led to a malapropism where some speakers believe that is the original phrase."[6]
(from above link)

That is, I was probably exposed to the 1967 film title more than Errol Flynn's naughty deeds.
I'm a victim of malapropisy!

[Major Softie]

That is, I was probably exposed to the 1967 film title more than Errol Flynn's naughty deeds.
I'm a victim of malapropisy!

LOL!

[blitz]

What I've always used is a 1" to 1.25" length of copper pipe, cut ALL along the long axis with a pipe cutter to achieve square edges. Spread the cut apart so that you get a "C" cross section. This will give you a much greater area in which to work when you both remove and install the valve retainers.

I can't imagine the headaches you'll have trying to install the valve retainers in the small area you've cut out in the brass you've shown above.

My "trick" to installing valve retainers is the use of a bit of grease on the valve stem (to hold the retainer once it is placed) and a "q-tip" with a bit of grease used to place the retainer on the valve stem.

Good luck. Good show for being "all in."

[Duane Ausherman]

Removal is easy and fast. Just one hamer blow is all. Of course it can't be installed the same way. The retainers with the rings take a larger blow, but it still works just fine.

[dougie]

Nice going Rob.
I would keep the up/down orientation of the springs the same.

[Jean]

I would agree with the orientation note, too.
A dab of heavy grease such as you would use on the wheel bearings holds the retainers and other small parts nicely in place.
a mechanics tweezer or thin nose (really thin - used to be called TV needle nose) pliers is also helpful if they will fit in the space. fingers are just TOO fat.
It's a good idea to arrange a shop towel around the work area or do the work in a half-cardboard box to catch parts in case the RIG slips.
Do you wonder how I know this????
Point it AWAY from you!!!
Kerosene is the solvent of choice, but it can be hard to find. It's a lot better than GAS tho.
Lacking "Kero" from a gas-station, get a small bottle of Lamp oil - it's highly refined kero, also called "Paraffin"...