Best possible front drum brake options?

[jjwithers]

I'm sticking with the stock /5 front brake hub for my next build... vs a something like a grimeca or converting to disks.

As far as shoes options go, I have found:

stock BMW shoes
sibenrock shoes
and having the old shoes re-lined. http://www.vintagebrake.com/

does anybody have any recommendations as to what is the most effective braking solution now that it has been 40 years since they made these machines?

Thanks in advance!

-josh

[Motorhead]

when I went back to drum I used some shose from Hucky's with modern materal Green shoes I call them

[robert]

Lengthen the lever at the backing plate.

[jjwithers]

OOh... i like modifications... which lever? and how does one lengthen it?

Lengthen the lever at the backing plate.

[Rob Frankham]

Lengthen the lever at the backing plate.

I would be very reluctant to mess with the length of the arms. The BMW twin leading shoe brake is very effective as it stands and you are very likely to make matters worse rather than better. You would have to lengthen both levers on the hub by the same amount to preserve the balance of the twin leading set up. This means that each mm of extra length at the backplate would translate to 2mm at the cable end of the handlebar lever, which means a lot of extra movement for the lever itself. If this brings the lever closer to the bar than your hand is comfortable with, you are likely to lose effective braking power rather than increase it.

The other comment I would make aboit twin leading shoe brakes (or any 'all leading' brake for that matter) is be very careful when stopped on a reverse slope. Going backwards, a twin leading shoe brake is actually a twin trailing shoe brake, which is another way of saying it don't work very well. On a steep slope you need to put in a lot of pressure at the lever to hold the bike. Use the rear brake for preference.

Rob

[robert]

Lengthen the lever at the backing plate.

I would be very reluctant to mess with the length of the arms. The BMW twin leading shoe brake is very effective as it stands and you are very likely to make matters worse rather than better. You would have to lengthen both levers on the hub by the same amount to preserve the balance of the twin leading set up. This means that each mm of extra length at the backplate would translate to 2mm at the cable end of the handlebar lever, which means a lot of extra movement for the lever itself. If this brings the lever closer to the bar than your hand is comfortable with, you are likely to lose effective braking power rather than increase it.

The other comment I would make aboit twin leading shoe brakes (or any 'all leading' brake for that matter) is be very careful when stopped on a reverse slope. Going backwards, a twin leading shoe brake is actually a twin trailing shoe brake, which is another way of saying it don't work very well. On a steep slope you need to put in a lot of pressure at the lever to hold the bike. Use the rear brake for preference.

Rob

Longer levers in practice work quite well. 20mm longer levers on a /5 give a nice feel and a big difference in stopping power. Don't knock it if you have not tried it.

[macdaddy]

Vintage brake!! It's what they do, and I LOVE my ferodo platinum pads I get from them!! longer arms ..I would try that, 20mm may be a bit much, as stated your handle bar lever pull will be longer. I did this on an Ossa MAR and along with some high zoot pads from Sammy Miller it stopped well. /5 drums have a good sweep area and ok leverage, your problem will be fade. Adding vents would be a BIG help. I (and all of you) have seen several vent setups,I have been also wanting to try drilling right through the drum sweep area itself.
Let us know what you do and how it works.

[Garnet]

Properly set up a /5 front drum is pretty powerful. It's not two fingers, it requires your whole hand but you can haul down the bike very quickly. Duane has a decent article on set up on his site.

You have to VERY careful after washing the bike or leaving it standing in the rain. If really wet you start with no brakes and need to ride them a bit to dry. Then they suddenly go through a very touchy stage, when two fingers are plenty of pull. They then slowly dry to normal. Riding in the rain isn't as bad because you are using the brakes enough to keep them dry.

I would be reluctant to add an air scoop because of the water problems. I have had my stock brakes super hot and never noticed any fade. Stan Miller http://www.boxerworks.com/forum2/viewto ... f=21&t=637 ran stock brake shoes on the track for a while and then switched to Ferodo shoes. Sending him a PM might be helpfull.

[Duane Ausherman]

Lengthen the lever at the backing plate.

We never tried it, but we discussed it. If robert says it will work, then it will work. I would love to try a /5 brake with better linings and the longer arms.

The /5 front brake has so many things going for it that I think it deserves to be kept and improved.

[jjwithers]

Are you guys talking about the two 'arm' levers that the cable connects to on the hub?
If so, how would you lengthen them?
I supposed you'd have to have them replicated by a machinist and made a bit longer...
Unless there is a similar part out there already that can be cross referenced? I initially thought a rear lever might work but they have different teeth diameter, a bend to the arm, and a much larger set of hoops for the brake rod (vs brake cable).