boyer electronics
boyer electronics
hi to all, since i didnt want to hi-jake the omega topics i thought id better start a new topic. omega was the go a while back but how come we dont hear anything about the boyer brand anymore ? not as good as the crank style v's the cam style ?
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Re: boyer electronics
Certainly, the crank style is better for spark timing stability and is better suited to the wasted-spark ignition system. Using the cam style can lead to double images which idicates that one cylinder is not firing at its optimal point. I have no experience with the Boyer, but have been using the Dyna III on my /7 for years. Downside is that is uses the stock advance unit. A big plus is the ability to adjust individually the firing of each cylinder to smooth out the engine and get the most from the ignition system. The Boyer is a good choice if the nose threads have been ruined on the cam tip...the internal advance curves negate the need for the stock advance weights.
Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
Re: boyer electronics
Aaah Kurt. I also have been using the DYNA III for MANY years...I think I posted earlier it was a 1987 installation.
Yes, it does use the stock advance unit, but that makes it very easy to replace faulty parts with points if needed.
Like having an umbrella in case of rain, and of course not needing it, I have not had to use the points and Cap. kit that I carry around all the time. that's not to say these parts have not been used! At least twice I've sold the ones I had to someone at a rally who REALLY needed them. Also the tiny springs for the advance weights...amazing what you might need that is not otherwise available from the local auto parts store.
PS. Am eternally greatful for the assistance with the tranny removal info you gave some years ago. Even in the "new" (2003) Clymer manual, they DO NOT mention that the short shift lever that goes into the transmission has to be removed before you can take the trans. out of the frame!
Yes, it does use the stock advance unit, but that makes it very easy to replace faulty parts with points if needed.
Like having an umbrella in case of rain, and of course not needing it, I have not had to use the points and Cap. kit that I carry around all the time. that's not to say these parts have not been used! At least twice I've sold the ones I had to someone at a rally who REALLY needed them. Also the tiny springs for the advance weights...amazing what you might need that is not otherwise available from the local auto parts store.
PS. Am eternally greatful for the assistance with the tranny removal info you gave some years ago. Even in the "new" (2003) Clymer manual, they DO NOT mention that the short shift lever that goes into the transmission has to be removed before you can take the trans. out of the frame!
Clemson, SC
R100s, R75/5
R100s, R75/5
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Re: boyer electronics
I guess I have the CRS thing going for me! Or more likely, I suspect you mean the "other" Kurt!!Jean wrote:PS. Am eternally greatful for the assistance with the tranny removal info you gave some years ago.
Kurt in S.A.
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Re: boyer electronics
Geez Major, I didn't think he was that bad?Major Softie wrote:Wasn't me. Maybe the "C" Curt.
Lord of the Bings
Re: boyer electronics
Nope. Pretty sure it was Kurt in S.A.
Anybody ELSE out there in S.A. whose name is Kurt???
Oh well. If [WHO} in S.A. reads the post...still: THANKS .
.
Anybody ELSE out there in S.A. whose name is Kurt???
Oh well. If [WHO} in S.A. reads the post...still: THANKS .
.
Clemson, SC
R100s, R75/5
R100s, R75/5
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- Posts: 1647
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:08 pm
Re: boyer electronics
Well, then...Your Welcome...Glad to Help!!! And I still have CRS...
Kurt in S.A.
Kurt in S.A.
Re: boyer electronics
Seeing as nobody has replied to the thread!
Boyers are available for all airheads, in either an analogue or digital type, the digital one has a rev limiter and tickover stabilization. They seem to be available in most countries and are a fairly cost effective electronic ignition. The system sold to replace bean can points, can be adapted to replace the hall sender in an electronic BMW bean can.
I have used them since I fitted one to my commando in 1973, and have not have any problems with reliability. The older models had a habit of reverting to full advance if battery voltage was too low, which is not a good thing on some bikes but I understand that this has been fixed in the current models. Other people have not liked them, but I think that you do need to read the instructions when fitting them.
The tickover stabilization feature uses the advance curve to try and stop the engine stalling at low revs, this means that the ignition map is a V shape around about 1000 rpm, so people get confused when they try and look at the static timing with a strobe. Boyers need to be set at full advance, this is usually at around 4000 rpm, but this can vary so set the full advance timing when the Boyer stops advancing. (there is a copy of the twin plug ignition map on my photobucket site)
I think that replacement of the mechanical advance and retard is a good thing, the Boyer advance curve retards the advance between 2500 and 3000 rpm, this is the prime pinging zone range for BMWs, especially the 600s, so might be worth fitting if you are having pinging issues.
Always use 5000 OHM resistor plug caps. This stops electrical interference with the black box.
The guy who builds my engines does not like the twin plug ignition map on the microdigital, he reckons it causes pinging at high revs, so he fits the plain Jane analogue ignition restarted to 28/29 degrees at full advance and let's the static timing fall where it may.
Boyer do have a telephone help line, it's between 4 and 5pm UK time, which is not that user friendly if you live in the US or Aussi, but it is a small company, they will test black boxes for a small fee, refundable if the black box is faulty, they will sell individual parts.
Boyers are available for all airheads, in either an analogue or digital type, the digital one has a rev limiter and tickover stabilization. They seem to be available in most countries and are a fairly cost effective electronic ignition. The system sold to replace bean can points, can be adapted to replace the hall sender in an electronic BMW bean can.
I have used them since I fitted one to my commando in 1973, and have not have any problems with reliability. The older models had a habit of reverting to full advance if battery voltage was too low, which is not a good thing on some bikes but I understand that this has been fixed in the current models. Other people have not liked them, but I think that you do need to read the instructions when fitting them.
The tickover stabilization feature uses the advance curve to try and stop the engine stalling at low revs, this means that the ignition map is a V shape around about 1000 rpm, so people get confused when they try and look at the static timing with a strobe. Boyers need to be set at full advance, this is usually at around 4000 rpm, but this can vary so set the full advance timing when the Boyer stops advancing. (there is a copy of the twin plug ignition map on my photobucket site)
I think that replacement of the mechanical advance and retard is a good thing, the Boyer advance curve retards the advance between 2500 and 3000 rpm, this is the prime pinging zone range for BMWs, especially the 600s, so might be worth fitting if you are having pinging issues.
Always use 5000 OHM resistor plug caps. This stops electrical interference with the black box.
The guy who builds my engines does not like the twin plug ignition map on the microdigital, he reckons it causes pinging at high revs, so he fits the plain Jane analogue ignition restarted to 28/29 degrees at full advance and let's the static timing fall where it may.
Boyer do have a telephone help line, it's between 4 and 5pm UK time, which is not that user friendly if you live in the US or Aussi, but it is a small company, they will test black boxes for a small fee, refundable if the black box is faulty, they will sell individual parts.
Re: boyer electronics
That timing map is from a defective unit, right?