/6 upgrades

[ontic]

Sorry Oldbmwmc for continuing a bit of thread drift, but having put /5 switchgear on my G/S (due to using different throttle and clutch the /5 switches seemed a simple and appropriate option) the starter button is a concern.
On my 74 90/6 I always have that same problem with the starter button hitting the tank bag when the engine is running. possibly one of the reasons why my starter motor needs attention...

I too am wondering what to do about this on the G/S. I've removed all of that starting only with clutch in or in neutral junk. One thought was to have a simple switch to enable and disable the starter button, kinda silly and redundant though. The other was like Charlie's idea to have a separate starter button that is more out of the way for the starter and then use the old starter button for another purpose.
Not sure what though.
An extra horn seems like the leading option- but the only way I could justify it was if it was an actual EXTRA horn, you know, a really ear piercing loud one. Fire the left for friendly noises, and fire the right for fending off cars trying to kill me, and fire both for special occasions, like saying farewell to people early in the morning. At least with two horn buttons I might actually hit the right one more often
I don't know. Suggestions? Maybe we need our own thread.
I've also gotta find a neat, small and simple and durable killswitch- one that opens the circuit when pressed (I have the wires ready to stick this switch between).

[moosehead]

Riding mate with a 90/6 moved his starter switch to just under the seat edge near the seat lock mechanism. Its a small spring loaded push button switch...kinda looks like push button for the seat lock. Slick, he just reaches down and one push...voila start!

Now uses old start switch on handle bar to switch on aux driving lights via relay under the tank.

See if I can get a pic of his setup when I see him...

[oldbmwmc]

Thanks Moosehead & Ontic

I was thinking of relocating the starter button to the dash of the S fairing, but that complicates things a bit if I want to take the fairing off. If I replace that ugly instrument cluster with a digital unit I could mount the button up there somewhere out of the way. Under the seat edge might be cool... I will think on that for a while.

While I have you here do you have any experience with shorter shocks, say around 12.5 inches? What would be the effect on handling?

[ontic]

No experience with shortening the rear shocks- but I have experienced playing around with raising the front, which is somewhat related. First question must be why? For the vertically challenged altering the seat might be the best idea.
Theoretical affect on handling would be a slight increase in trail, thus slight increase in 'stability' at the expense of 'turn in', and a bunch of other stuff, maybe minor maybe not. In the real world, I wouldn't have a clue- seat of the pants stuff will probably tell you the most.
With the new big dirt bike front end on my G/S, the forks started off way too long, increasing trail, before I shortened them (to stock G/S height) it rode OK but felt a little chopperish (is that a word? I've never ridden a chopper ), after shortening the forks it feels a lot zippier with turning. I like it a lot more. I'm going to raise the rear a little (relocating shock mount) to be able to keep the same feeling/turn-in I've got now while raising the front to match and getting a bit more suspension travel out of the equation.

For relocating the starter button, the priority for me is I want to be able to use it with my right hand while keeping my hand on the throttle, and my left hand needs to be able to hold the clutch in and press my choke lever with my thumb in at the same time (handlebar mounted choke). Just for those instances where starting is really difficult, the battery is almost flat, and you need that perfect combo of choke and throttle (and luck) and you want it in neutral with the clutch in for easiest turn over.
I think I'll mount mine on the handlebar inside of the throttle and switchgear somehwere that I can just reach it with my pointer finger.

[oldbmwmc]

So many options... thanks I guess. Now another problem has cropped up. The master cylinder is leaking. This will be the 4th rebuild in 38 years. Should I take care of it now or ride with it till the season is over? I bought a kit on eBay that has oversize seals in it so I'm ready to do the work, but inevitably things will not go as planned....

[Airbear]

Hmm, I posted a reply earlier and now it's gone ... I'll try again.

Old, if you have been there before you will know that that leaking brake fluid is dribbling all over your frame, softening the paint. There is also the chance that the leak will accelerate and that is potentially dangerous. If the MC bore is not pitted you can fit the new seals and get everything buttoned up pretty quickly.

I'm doing a frame-up refurb at the moment, and one of the reasons for going there was the state of the frame after what must have been many instances of that abominable under-tank MC leaking. I am now getting ready to install an after-market bar-mounted alternative - a Magura 225 Series 13mm. Ontic gave me the heads-up, pointing me to this thread on ADV -

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=742109

This MC is well suited to the '74 R90 with the /5 controls. Here's a pic from the ADV thread -



Anyways, I'm really looking forward to trying out the new brake once the bike is back together. With the smaller bore and the elimination of the cable there should be, and people claim, a dramatic increase in braking performance. I ordered mine through Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Magura-Hydraulic- ... B001J8MSDE

[Motorhead]

Thanks Moosehead & Ontic

I was thinking of relocating the starter button to the dash of the S fairing, but that complicates things a bit if I want to take the fairing off. If I replace that ugly instrument cluster with a digital unit I could mount the button up there somewhere out of the way. Under the seat edge might be cool... I will think on that for a while.

While I have you here do you have any experience with shorter shocks, say around 12.5 inches? What would be the effect on handling?

I tried a shorter shock in my first SWB test bike rode wonderful but center stand use turned to more effert side stand use was uncertain but stoped the puff of smoke.............. from useing it full time

[Motorhead]

Hmm, I posted a reply earlier and now it's gone ... I'll try again.

Old, if you have been there before you will know that that leaking brake fluid is dribbling all over your frame, softening the paint. There is also the chance that the leak will accelerate and that is potentially dangerous. If the MC bore is not pitted you can fit the new seals and get everything buttoned up pretty quickly.

I'm doing a frame-up refurb at the moment, and one of the reasons for going there was the state of the frame after what must have been many instances of that abominable under-tank MC leaking. I am now getting ready to install an after-market bar-mounted alternative - a Magura 225 Series 13mm. Ontic gave me the heads-up, pointing me to this thread on ADV -

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=742109

This MC is well suited to the '74 R90 with the /5 controls. Here's a pic from the ADV thread -



Anyways, I'm really looking forward to trying out the new brake once the bike is back together. With the smaller bore and the elimination of the cable there should be, and people claim, a dramatic increase in braking performance. I ordered mine through Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Magura-Hydraulic- ... B001J8MSDE

yep the smaller 13mm master is the ticket
useing 2 40mm caliper is certain successs

[hal]

Welcome to the forum, Old.
I totally agree about the /6 headlight and instrument arrangement. I suspect that BMW were trying to get a hondayamazootie look. Why not find yourself a nice /5 bucket? I had been looking for one for years and eventually found a chinese copy of a russian copy of something like an early BMW bucket on eBay for $100. My instruments died too, so I fitted an Acewell 2853 digital instrument ($250 at the time). This I am mostly happy with but the LED idiot lights are invisible in sunlight, so I am about to fit some extra idiot lights into the bucket. This is how it looks at the moment (er, last week actually - I've just pulled it all apart)





The really nice thing is that the bucket came with a car type ignition switch at the top front - turn the key one click for ignition on, then a good spring-loaded twist for the starter. Can use either hand to start. I love it to bits, and having a nice old-school headlight leading me around makes me grin. I fabricated some stainless steel 'ears' to mount the bucket - they need to be longer than the /6 ears because the /5 type bucket is a lot deeper. I then added a couple of LED spotlights to add to the night-time light show. The bucket I got was a reject, I think. It is somewhat asymmetrical, but so am I.

I think I'll steal your idea, Airbear. This really looked good to me Found a source in Germany for the bucket, but still needs to find the Acewell or similar.

Cheers!