WHERE DOES THIS PART GO????

[ibjman]

Reassembling a 1982 R100rs after a spline lube & top end reseal, transmission & swingarm was out, barrels & heads were off, etc. Also removed the factory centerstand in favor of a Reynolds Ride off stand & removed the brown side stand in favor of the oem side stand.
I'm stumped as to what the attached (photos) part is & where it goes....I can't remember where I took this threaded, shouldered round nut & short bolt off! Someone help?
I'm guessing that it's the forward fastener for the brown side stand for fastening to the repositioned/reused exhaust pipe wrap around "P" clamp.
Can anyone verify? OH OH.....can ot figure out how to add the photo?????? Phooeeey

[PITAPan]

The brown does indeed use shouldered nut and short bolt for it's forward attachment to a muffler clamp.

What are you going to do with that old brown? (you noticed the bit about it hitting the Reynolds I gather)

Edit: the instructions for the Brown are available online. The shouldered nut and bolt is shown.

[Airbear]

OH OH.....can ot figure out how to add the photo?????? Phooeeey

Photo attachment is no longer available. The Boxerworks storage cupboard is full.
To post an image you will need to make use of a photo hosting site elsewhere. Google 'free photo hosting' and check the options. I use PictureTrail, but there are many others. You set up an account with a user name and password, upload your images, then copy the code for a given image to include in your post. There should be instructions on your chosen hosting site.

[ibjman]

I have not yet decided what to do with the Brown stand.....pending some actual use with the OEM "leaner".
Thanks for the speedy replies about both the mystery nut & the photo issue.

Besides the issue with the Brown stand interference with the Reynolds stand......it's just SOOOOO ugly hanging there on an otherwise pristine motorcycle. My Reynolds centerstand is chrome.....that's the only one I could find at the time I was shopping for it. It's brand new, never installed. I felt fortunate to find it in spite of the pricy cost from the guy who had it.
There's been lots published about the pros & cons of both stands. For me, The OEM stand was just so difficult to hoist the bike up & back down, that in spite of my years & years of experience with these.....I no longer have the physical strength to do it. Funny, I had an 81 rs many years ago & I don't remember that issue being a problem. With this new (to me) bike, I have no history.........I'm almost sure that in spite of all the posts about the incredibly difficult centerstand, I'm guessing that mine could have been the wrong part????
This machine only has 26,000 miles on it.
Today, after major mx. ops, I was disappointed to find a completely "shelled" drive side rear wheel bearing. Upon disassembly the bearings were found to have adequate grease, not dry at all but (only) the right side one was "toast". I hardly would have expected that catastrophic bearing failure at such a relatively low mileage.
The bearings that came out are: SKF 30203J2/VT108.
Anyone know if those are factory parts in an 82?????
Also, I'm curious about bearing numbers in general IE: I found lots of bearings online with the #30203 but only SKF had the "J2" designation. Anyone know if there's a difference? And what does the /VT108 mean?

[PITAPan]

I have not yet decided what to do with the Brown stand.....pending some actual use with the OEM "leaner".
Thanks for the speedy replies about both the mystery nut & the photo issue.

Besides the issue with the Brown stand interference with the Reynolds stand......it's just SOOOOO ugly hanging there on an otherwise pristine motorcycle. My Reynolds centerstand is chrome.....that's the only one I could find at the time I was shopping for it. It's brand new, never installed. I felt fortunate to find it in spite of the pricy cost from the guy who had it.
There's been lots published about the pros & cons of both stands. For me, The OEM stand was just so difficult to hoist the bike up & back down, that in spite of my years & years of experience with these.....I no longer have the physical strength to do it. Funny, I had an 81 rs many years ago & I don't remember that issue being a problem. With this new (to me) bike, I have no history.........I'm almost sure that in spite of all the posts about the incredibly difficult centerstand, I'm guessing that mine could have been the wrong part????
This machine only has 26,000 miles on it.
Today, after major mx. ops, I was disappointed to find a completely "shelled" drive side rear wheel bearing. Upon disassembly the bearings were found to have adequate grease, not dry at all but (only) the right side one was "toast". I hardly would have expected that catastrophic bearing failure at such a relatively low mileage.
The bearings that came out are: SKF 30203J2/VT108.
Anyone know if those are factory parts in an 82?????
Also, I'm curious about bearing numbers in general IE: I found lots of bearings online with the #30203 but only SKF had the "J2" designation. Anyone know if there's a difference? And what does the /VT108 mean?

I resolved the interference issure with the Brow/Reynolds with some modifications to the brown. They was very complicated work and required not only bending it but redoing the travel stops both ways. it is not quite as solid as it was. next time I have it off I'll tweak the travel stops some more.

the 30203 is a standard bearing. Any quality brand will do (NOT from some eBay seller, go to a bearing house). The J2 is an SKF thing and designates the bearing model. For instance: http://www.skf.com/group/products/beari ... index.html. 30203 is a universal number that designates the bearing.

I'm not sure what you are calling catastrophic failure. With lubrication and ballpark preloading they lifespan is more than a million miles, easy. Same bearing is used a number of places and they get destroyed in the headset by mis-adjustment. This can happen quickly.

The center stand on the '83 was a disaster. i think BMW was handing out ride-off stands to try to fix that year (???). Your '82 might have had the no-work '83 geometry. Earlier and later worked properly. They just screwed up the geometry there for a bit. Why this was not obvious at the factory is beyond me.

Putting the bike on the centerstand should require minimal strength. I've taught some very petite ladies to centerstand big bikes. When doing such lessons I always stand on the far side of the bike. Their first try with correct body geometry and thinking the right thoughts, they send the bike flying. I catch it, compliment them and suggest another try, but gently this time. [edit: shorter people have a a leverage advantage over taller people on this one]

[ME 109]

Don't use a 30203J bearing!
Don't know how similar a 30203j2 is, but it may have helped in your bearing failure.

[moosehead]

Yea, the centre stand on the, new-to-me, 83 RS is taxing to get the bike up on the centre stand.

Head an 82 RS and it was a peace of cake compared to the 83.

Due to some surgery early on I didn't want to over exert myself so only used the side stand until I got feeling better and my strength back....now....I can get it up but it ain't easy. My GS was like that too...just a bitch to get up on the centre stand. I may look around for a Reynolds too.

[PITAPan]

Don't use a 30203J bearing!
Don't know how similar a 30203j2 is, but it may have helped in your bearing failure.

If you look in the NSK catalog at the 30203J bearing you see the pertinent radius is 1mm. There are some bearings with a much larger radius. These have "spec" in the radius columns in the dimensions. I didn't look for any to see the bearing number.

http://www.jp.nsk.com/app01/en/ctrg/ind ... k_B110-181 downloads the PDF cat.

If you look at the Timken nfo for the 30203 bearing the radii are 1.020 mm.

http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roll ... item-25557

I think you got some oddball bearing off FleaBay. I warned you about buying there.

[ibjman]

Thanks for those replies!
It could be, I had the 83 stand.....no way to know by looking at it.....they could have helped us out by stamping some numbers on them somewhere......lol. As I said.....I had an 81 before & it worked well. This one showed no wear on the up "stops" but the bike would actually slide forward on the stand when trying to take it down! Seems like a handy guy could just trim 1/2" off the bottom of the arc and weld some new metal there. I haven't the time or patience for that.
Back to the wheel bearing....My description of catastrophic failure was meaning that the bearing was quite bad in the standard way......lots of chrome metal flakes in the grease between the rollers. Cleaning & inspection revealed the hardchrome all flaked off and roughed out of the inner race......some deterioration of a couple of rollers and the standard "dent" marks in the outer race where the rollers had been running over the flakes flying round I the grease......no rhyme nor reason why such a huge failure at only 26,000 miles. It did appear like someone had been "in there" before as the outboard load spacer on the left side had some definite "tool marks" on it's inside shoulder/ledge where it was driven out from the inside at some previous time??????
More comments????
PS: I am also replacing the rubber fork boots at the bottom of the fairing during this session (next)......Can anyone tell me......is it essential to GLUE those edges to the fairing as they were when I found them? or is that only needed when they get old & start to come loose? OBTW.....I'll pull the front wheel bearings for inspection while that repair is underway.

[PITAPan]

Thanks for those replies!
It could be, I had the 83 stand.....no way to know by looking at it.....they could have helped us out by stamping some numbers on them somewhere......lol. As I said.....I had an 81 before & it worked well. This one showed no wear on the up "stops" but the bike would actually slide forward on the stand when trying to take it down! Seems like a handy guy could just trim 1/2" off the bottom of the arc and weld some new metal there. I haven't the time or patience for that.
Back to the wheel bearing....My description of catastrophic failure was meaning that the bearing was quite bad in the standard way......lots of chrome metal flakes in the grease between the rollers. Cleaning & inspection revealed the hardchrome all flaked off and roughed out of the inner race......some deterioration of a couple of rollers and the standard "dent" marks in the outer race where the rollers had been running over the flakes flying round I the grease......no rhyme nor reason why such a huge failure at only 26,000 miles. It did appear like someone had been "in there" before as the outboard load spacer on the left side had some definite "tool marks" on it's inside shoulder/ledge where it was driven out from the inside at some previous time??????
More comments????
PS: I am also replacing the rubber fork boots at the bottom of the fairing during this session (next)......Can anyone tell me......is it essential to GLUE those edges to the fairing as they were when I found them? or is that only needed when they get old & start to come loose? OBTW.....I'll pull the front wheel bearings for inspection while that repair is underway.

PO could have used the inner race to drive in the outer race. That would trash things quick.

Don't know for a fact on the boots. You want to clean up the old glue in any event. Then just put the new ones on "dry" useing alcohol as a lubricant--as in technical on the boots, not malt beverage in you. See if it works. If not and as long as you didn't use a silicone assembly lube, you can just glue them later.