Boxerworks.com

I have had this VR on my bike for over a year without issues.
http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm (near the bottom of the page)

lrz wrote:What brand VR have you got? As mentioned above, I used a BorgWarner substitute as per airheads.org; though it did not put out sufficient voltage, the factory pigtail was a direct fit.

I'll get one of those motoelektrik ones but right now I have an Echlin VR1004. It was on one of my bikes when I bought it. It is a metal housing with everything sealed up in epoxy (?).

Four wires poke out from the epoxy. The black and yellow are saimesed into one male spade connector. The other two colors are red and green. What I was thinking is that the green is ground and should go to the bike's port that has a brown wire. Does it matter where the two non-ground wires go? That is, does it have polarity or can I just hook them up either way?

Thanks, Chuey

I really don't know if polarity matters, but I suspect so.

The Echlin sounds like the BorgWarner I had and now carry as a spare.

lrz wrote:I really don't know if polarity matters, but I suspect so.

The Echlin sounds like the BorgWarner I had and now carry as a spare.

Did it have four wires? How did you have it hooked up?

Chuey

Mine came w/ a direct fit pigtail.
As I think about your polarity question, the method of bypassing the VR to test it comes to mind; check Snobum's site on that.

I don't THINK you'll fry anything if it is not wired properly, it (VR) may simply not function.
Please, consult the article, though...

I'm assuming you bypassed the regulator to measure max output from the alternator? That should tell you the problem.

Short out the two blue wires on the connector going to the voltage regulator and start the bike. if voltage continues to rise (13, 14, 15, 16, etc.) you know the alternator is putting out the voltage but the regulator is clipping it. Get rid of the old mechanical regulator is that's the case. the newer electronic units are MUCH more reliable.

RPG

hi to all, chuey ( im not sure if your model of your bike ) but if it is a earlier one 90/6/S etc try to get your hands on a bosch RE 57 VR any good auto elect shop should have them a lot of cars use them , they are electronic and they are set to around 14.2 v and they'll plug straight into the std loom.

Hi to all who helped with this problem. I bought an electronic VR from Rick at Euro Moto Elektrik. It's in there and working fine.

Yes, we shorted across those two terminals and it showed the alternator to be putting out like a high school cheerleader. (Had to try that out, the saying.) The alternator light works correctly now.

Thanks to all who helped.

Chuey

Been gone, so no posts on this issue. If the battery isn't fully charged up, then you will see the voltage continue to increase. When it stops going up, it is charged and that is the charge voltage. If you start it with the electric starter, it is never fully charged after that drain, so you will not have a way to get it running with a fully charged battery.

You didn't tell us the end voltage with the new VR. Should be a minimum of 14 and 14.2 is better for most riding.

As a direct answer with regard to checking an alternator or generator ground the field - that you and your friend Bob obviously did. So yup, that is the procedure. I am sure snowbum's article is BMW specific, well written and so simple even "a child prodigy can operate."

You OK Duane? Not knowing your status, my thoughts/prayers and wishes are with you Linda and family.

Douglas