Tonight I put on the other voltmeter I had and put the instrument cluster back in place. Now most the lights, including the charge light are working. I hooked up my multimeter to the battery and started it up. The voltage would only go up to 13.3. I think I remember the ideal figure being 14.5 or so. I revved it up and 13.3 was all it seemed to want to put out.
Am I in the ball park or will this just not fly? I'm kind of thinking that it may settle in and get happier after a few times of fanging around in the mountains. (Just had to use "fanging" ). Is this possible or am I dreaming?
Chuey
Charge voltage
Re: Charge voltage
13.3 V doesn't sound super. But, what does it measure at rest? Anything above at rest voltage means its charging some, but...I'd want to see something a little closer to 14 V.
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Re: Charge voltage
First off make sure that your probes are on the battery terminals, not the lugs that are bolted to the terminals. At a minimum you need 14 volts. Driving habits dictate just how much over 14 is needed.
This number can be found on just about any 12 volt vehicle.
13.3 just won't do it unless you are happy riding your bike while falling from an airplane and the engine is off.
This number can be found on just about any 12 volt vehicle.
13.3 just won't do it unless you are happy riding your bike while falling from an airplane and the engine is off.
Ask the Indians what happens when you don't control immigration.
Re: Charge voltage
I am not. If the engine is off, how will I gas it and go as I hit the ground?Duane Ausherman wrote: 13.3 just won't do it unless you are happy riding your bike while falling from an airplane and the engine is off.
Chuey
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Re: Charge voltage
Chuey, that, among others, is a of the disadvange of launching from an airborne platform. The high relative ground speed (good) gets translated to the vertical plane (not good) and I am not sure that we have the technology to convert it back to the horizontal in large numbers. A real problem.
Better to just get the change voltage to at least 14 and a bit more is good.
Better to just get the change voltage to at least 14 and a bit more is good.
Ask the Indians what happens when you don't control immigration.
Re: Charge voltage
I've been woikin' on it. Still trying. Need more ideas.
Chuey
Chuey
Re: Charge voltage
Are your brushes in good shape? Did you clean the slip rings on the rotor? (just touch them with a Scotchbrite pad while the engine is running)
Re: Charge voltage
I'm sure that have bright and clean connections throughout the charging and earthing circuits , doing this added a noticeable voltage to the charge at the battery.
Re: Charge voltage
So your voltage regulator checks out?
How are your diode board grounds?
How are your diode board grounds?
- George Ryals
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Re: Charge voltage
First you need to have the battery fully charged before doing a charging system test.
The factory mechanical voltage regulators limit voltage to 13.8 volts. The high output electronic regulator limits the voltage to 14.2 volts. 14.2 volts is too much on a bike that is for touring and will boil a regular lead acid battery dry on a day long super slab run. An around town bike will do all
right at 14.2 volts. AGM batteries can take the 14.2 volt charging rate without damage.
The factory mechanical voltage regulators limit voltage to 13.8 volts. The high output electronic regulator limits the voltage to 14.2 volts. 14.2 volts is too much on a bike that is for touring and will boil a regular lead acid battery dry on a day long super slab run. An around town bike will do all
right at 14.2 volts. AGM batteries can take the 14.2 volt charging rate without damage.
Smile it's contagious!
'74 R90S, '67 /2 Conv w/sc, '66 R50/2
'74 Harley FXE, '72 Harley FLH w/HD sc
'69 BSA 441 Victor Special, '74 R90/6 Basket case
'85 R80RT wreck for parts
'74 R90S, '67 /2 Conv w/sc, '66 R50/2
'74 Harley FXE, '72 Harley FLH w/HD sc
'69 BSA 441 Victor Special, '74 R90/6 Basket case
'85 R80RT wreck for parts