mralistairjones wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2024 5:08 pm
Good evening gentlemen.
This is what I found.
I am holding it as it came away from the engine.
Am I seeing this correctly is the shim between the gasket and the O ring, if so it's not in the correct place, shim first then the O ring held in with the cover, and I thought the O ring was always white, last one I got is as well as my spare is white, Kurt is correct as well you need to measure that canister depth to see if you need a gasket or not.
Answered further up the thread...
SteveD wrote: ↑19 Jun 2024 13:49
mralistairjones wrote: ↑19 Jun 2024 12:46
Understood. That’s the gasket which so I’m told is not required along with the shim on post 1990 machines.
It might be an shadowy illusion to my eye...pink looks like a shim. Orange is gasket, blue is o-ring...but you knew that
IMG_8314.jpeg
That is an incredible observation, and if I did not know better then I would have agreed with you that was a shim. However, it must just be how the photo was taken because there honestly was no shim fitted.
mralistairjones wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2024 5:08 pm
Good evening gentlemen.
This is what I found.
I am holding it as it came away from the engine.
Am I seeing this correctly is the shim between the gasket and the O ring, if so it's not in the correct place, shim first then the O ring held in with the cover, and I thought the O ring was always white, last one I got is as well as my spare is white, Kurt is correct as well you need to measure that canister depth to see if you need a gasket or not.
I saw the shim too at first but it's an optical illusion, the OP later stated there was no shim and as Rob pointed out, on that model year there shouldn't have been a shim and neither should there have been a gasket which was essentially the cause of the problem.
Some say the whole $2000 O ring thing is over hyped and people fuss over it too much but it seems to me that this is a perfect example where whoever built that bike, didn't know what they were doing when it came to fitting the filter. I don't think it's over hyped if it saves someones engine. Having already done 2000 miles I trust and hope the OP got away with it, no thanks to the bikes builder.
On the black O ring, I'm pretty disgusted with a major UK supplier substituting cheap standard 70 shore O rings for the correct part which is considerably softer. They sold me one and I've never used it and won't buy from them again. No way is a 70 shore O ring going to accept the same amount of compression as the correct item. Next thing we'll hear is someone has stripped the threads in the crankcase trying to get the cover flush. I don't doubt a Black O could be used but only with another level of care in reducing the target amount of compression. Filter replacement is complicated enough without a supplier who should know better making it even worse.
Agreed Barry, During my rebuild I obtained a rear main seal that leaked within 200 miles really hacked me off, when I spoke with them they said it was poor installation, sorry but I purchase the install tool from them as well. I paid 3 time the cost for the correct OEM seal from BMW following guidance from members here and no leaks since.
I hope it's OK to in effect resurrect this post which I began some 12 months ago or so. Assuming it is, may I seek some information please.
Attached is an image of the oil drain plug of my bike, you'll notice there is a small pool of oil directly below it which has never happened before and has not happened since I tightened it after filling the bike with oil last year.
I've checked and it appears to me that the oil is coming from the oil drain plug.
I'm wondering, is this a common occurrence?
For information;
1. I was able to tighten the plug a little after I noticed the initial leak
2. Since the tightening, then it didn't leak BEFORE I took the bike out but it DID after I took it for a short ride out
This oil drain plug and crush washer were brand new ready for when I changed the oil and filter last year.
My current theory is that the crush washer has perhaps split and so is not able to do it's job.
What do you guys think and what would you do in their circumstance?
Thank you very much for any advice that you may be able to share.
Attachments
WhatsApp Image 2025-04-24 at 14.22.52_17151bd6.jpg (263.79 KiB) Viewed 11320 times
1) That doesn't appear to be a 'stock' drain plug (which is an allen plug). May have nothing to do with the issue... can't really say.
2) The sealing washer 'should' be replaced every time it's removed. You can sometimes get away with annealing copper washers and removing them but if you don't replace, it's not unusual to get leakage from this point.
3) If, after replacing the washer, the issue doesn't go away, you need to examine the mating faces on the plug and the sump. if the sump face is damaged slightly, it can be salvaged by facing it up. If the plug face is damaged, the best remedy is to replace the plug.
4) If all else fails, you need to look at the sump casting to see if there are any cracks.
The sum plug was provided by Motobins to replace the original. It is the recommended replacement for the original. When it was fitted I put a new washer on at the same time. The mating faces maybe the problem but it’s strange that this has started happening some 9 months after the plough was last removed.
I tend to agree that a replacement washer and plug may resolve this small problem as looking around the casing I’m certain the oil is coming from the underside of the plug.
WhatsApp Image 2024-06-19 at 19.05.36_92bf00ef.jpg (230.8 KiB) Viewed 8389 times
1645824790-ENA38511-2.jpg (25.71 KiB) Viewed 8389 times
This mornings job was an oil and filter change on my R100R. The filter removed was the same as the above, the replacement from Motobins has the rubber seals both ends. It all went together without any problems but am now wondering if the rubber seal at the cover end is partially blocking the feed and return holes as shown in the second image for the oil cooler. Any comments?
