R100 Gearbox

[FMurtz]

I have trouble getting neutral when stopped and warm, it is physically hard to lift gear lever and if it does it goes directly to next gear, It has no trouble slipping in to neutral when going if I do not want it to.
Recently I fitted new neutral switch, Could that be a little too high in the box and binding somehow?
Should I put another copper washer on it?

[SteveD]

Was it ok before the new neutral switch?

I find neutral is found easiest with slight movement of the bike and a feathered clutch.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

I have trouble getting neutral when stopped and warm, it is physically hard to lift gear lever and if it does it goes directly to next gear, It has no trouble slipping in to neutral when going if I do not want it to.
Recently I fitted new neutral switch, Could that be a little too high in the box and binding somehow?
Should I put another copper washer on it?

Welcome to the forum FMurtz.


A hard to find neutral is a classic symptom of a dragging clutch, and not just on Beemers.

What year bike do you have? There are different clutch assemblies.

It's hard for me to imagine how the neutral switch could be the problem, but I don't see any harm in adding another washer to it. Of course that's not the easiest thing to do.

How about telling us about your bike's history and any work that has been done on the transmission/clutch?




Ken

[FMurtz]

It is a 1982 R100 I just put a new clutch plate in it and it is probably dragging as it clunks going into gear but even with full pull on lever with next to no freeplay is still does not seem to disengage completely
Although this neutral business is only when hot.

[Duane Ausherman]

The solution is very simple. Always be in neutral when you come to a stop. I do it automatically after all of these years. In the last few feet I just nudge it up into neutral, or down, as the case may be.

The only time a bike should be shifted when sitting still is when one goes from neutral to 1st. Even then there should be a lag from pulling the lever to actually adding the needed presure. The lag time will vary according to the temperature of the box. When cold, it is very short and when hot, take a bit more time as the parts may not have slowed down enough. You don't want the parts to come to a stop, just slow down so that they don't clash and make the clunk.

[FMurtz]

I will try that,I have been holding clutch in after going down to first in heavy stop go traffic but when traffic does not move then try for neutral.
I also have a problem at home in that I bring the bike right up to touch a wall (uphill) when parking but I suppose that I could wait to change to neutral after switching engine off.

[ME 109]

My 81 RS will do the same thing if my clutch cable adjustment is not 'just right'
Try backing the handle bar adjuster out one turn.....or more if necessary.
Works for me.

[FMurtz]

Just went out and had a fiddle with bike,no matter how far the clutch lever at the box is pulled the clutch does not release fully.(with back wheel off ground can hold it with very little pressure with clutch disengaged so it looks like I just have to put up with it.
It just worries me that every time I put it in gear I have a clunk and every clunk is a bit more metal off the gears even if it is miniscule.

[ME 109]

Hmmm, maybe the clutch diaphragm (the plate with all the spring fingers) is kaput?

Certainly sounds like the clutch is not disengaging properly.
Check the adjusting nut and bolt on the clutch lever at the box, as it may also be out of adjustment. Try screwing the bolt in further, 2 or 3 turns to see if there is a difference.
It may be simple to compensate for a worn part or mis-adjustment but it shouldn't be happening.

[Ken in Oklahoma]

The solution is very simple. Always be in neutral when you come to a stop. I do it automatically after all of these years. In the last few feet I just nudge it up into neutral, or down, as the case may be.

The only time a bike should be shifted when sitting still is when one goes from neutral to 1st. Even then there should be a lag from pulling the lever to actually adding the needed presure. The lag time will vary according to the temperature of the box. When cold, it is very short and when hot, take a bit more time as the parts may not have slowed down enough. You don't want the parts to come to a stop, just slow down so that they don't clash and make the clunk.

I dunno if I would see slipping the box into neutral at a stop as a "solution"; a work around yes. A clutch isn't supposed to drag like that, especially a dry single disk clutch, and I would want to know why it is doing so.

I will sometimes slip the gearbox into neutral when coming to a stop, and sometimes not depending upon circumstances. Obviously one wouldn't when coming up to a stop sign. Coming to a stop at a signal light is a mixed bag. If I'm concerned about an inattentive driver rear ending me while I'm sitting at the light I might very well want to keep the bike in gear with the clutch pulled rather than consuming that valuable second it takes to snick the bike into gear in an attempt to get the hell out of range. On the other hand, if there's a line of cars behind me, protecting me as it were, I don't feel so vulnerable about being rear ended.

And if I'm stuck in a traffic jam it's a no brainer. You go into neutral.

Frankly I don't know what the better practice is, to go into neutral or not. I also don't know how hard it is on the throwout bearing (clutch release bearing), doing so for several seconds sometimes more than a minute, at a time on a regular basis. I wonder what the safety experts say. I'm guessing they would question the wisdom of saving wear and tear on parts at the cost of compromising one's personal safety. The less diplomatic ones might say, 'fix the damned motorcycle if the clutch is dragging'.


Ken