So I've got 65,000 klms on my shocks. I sent a note to Ikon in the States (Pa) Here's what they sent.
Fair Dinkhum?
Thank you for your inquiry regarding service to your Ikon 7610 Series suspension units.
Assuming it's just a regular service replacing seals, 'O' rings, fluid, upper and lower mounting bushes and labor, the price is $110 per shock = $220 plus insured return USPS shipping to US addresses $25 TOTAL: $245 USD
If additional parts outside normal service are required, such as replacement springs or piston rods etc. that is an additional charge.
Please securely pack, insure and send the shocks to us at the address in the footer. Upon receipt, they are stripped (see pic) cleaned and inspected. Pics and a condition report is then emailed to you along with price for service.
If you agree, an invoice is emailed to you for secure online payment and we generally have a turn around time of 5 working days or sooner plus return shipping time.
Please include a piece of paper in the package with your name and return address.
If you have any questions I'll be pleased to assist.
Koni shock rebuild
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Koni shock rebuild
Any and all disclaimers may apply
- Airbear
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Re: Koni shock rebuild
Are they leaking?
My Ikons leaked after only a couple of years from new, leading to a very bouncy ride. I went to the Ikon factory - it's 25kms away from me - and asked if they could replace the seals. Got much the same response, though it was $120 each to replace the seals, more if anything else was wrong. I bought the seals (around $40) and set about doing it myself. Problem was, the aluminium gland nuts had been installed by a gorilla and tightened to the point where the tubes were visibly flared and the holes for a pin spanner were seriously elongated in the tightening direction. I eventually resorted to cutting rebates into the sides of the gland nuts so I could get a big 'shifter' (crescent wrench?) onto them. I did that 9 years ago and they are still good. Fair dinkum, mate.
My Ikons leaked after only a couple of years from new, leading to a very bouncy ride. I went to the Ikon factory - it's 25kms away from me - and asked if they could replace the seals. Got much the same response, though it was $120 each to replace the seals, more if anything else was wrong. I bought the seals (around $40) and set about doing it myself. Problem was, the aluminium gland nuts had been installed by a gorilla and tightened to the point where the tubes were visibly flared and the holes for a pin spanner were seriously elongated in the tightening direction. I eventually resorted to cutting rebates into the sides of the gland nuts so I could get a big 'shifter' (crescent wrench?) onto them. I did that 9 years ago and they are still good. Fair dinkum, mate.
Charlie
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
and Brunhilde - 1974 R90/6
Graduate, Wallace and Gromit School of Engineering and Design (Pending)
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Re: Koni shock rebuild
FWIW, the Ikon importer in the UK is able to supply spare parts for DIY servicing. Not a difficult job at all once you've found a peg spanner to fit the gland nut. The parts also fit the Koni shocks that were replicated by Ikon.
Rob
Rob
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Re: Koni shock rebuild
"I eventually resorted to cutting rebates into the sides of the gland nuts so I could get a big 'shifter' (crescent wrench?) onto them."
Really? Sounds pretty hard core to me.
So if my 37 year old Konis are not leaking, would there be an improvement if I had them serviced?
Really? Sounds pretty hard core to me.
So if my 37 year old Konis are not leaking, would there be an improvement if I had them serviced?
Any and all disclaimers may apply
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Re: Koni shock rebuild
That's hard to say. over 37 years, it is possiible that there will have been slight leakage, not enough to be noticed externally, which will reduce effectiveness. There is also a slight possibility of deterioration in the fluid itself, the possiblility of wear in the mechanical bits and the probability that modern fluid has a better spec than that of 37 years ago. Whether that would amount to a detectable difference in performance is another matter. I think you're likely to get more change from deterioration of the springs themselves. My advice (such as it is) would be to remove the suspension units, remove te springs (you'll want to do it to clean them up anyway) the manually pull the damper rod in and out a few times. When the rod nears full extension, you'll be able to feel and hear if there isn't sufficient fluid as air passes through the valve. If there is, then you'll need, at minimum, to top them up. If there's no sign of air passing through the valve, then I'd say put them on the bike and ride it.
Rob
Rob
Last edited by Rob Frankham on Thu Mar 18, 2021 2:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Koni shock rebuild
This is a thread about getting the gland nut loose as well as a link to a page with detailed rebuild instruction:
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=104637.0
Hope this helps,
Tom
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=104637.0
Hope this helps,
Tom
'73 R75/5
'70 Guzzi Ambo 750
'72 Guzzi Eldo 850
'04 Guzzi California EVT
'07 HD Dyna Street Bob
'53 Triumph 6T (To be restored one day)
Tom
'70 Guzzi Ambo 750
'72 Guzzi Eldo 850
'04 Guzzi California EVT
'07 HD Dyna Street Bob
'53 Triumph 6T (To be restored one day)
Tom
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Re: Koni shock rebuild
Indeed, very useful...
Rob
Rob
Re: Koni shock rebuild
I know it's pricey, but I bought this tool a number of years ago. I had made a tool for BMW wheel bearing caps, but decided I wanted something more reusable. I like the threaded adjustment that holds the spread between the pins.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facom-Fa-117-B ... Sw6K1f7fJk
Does well with BMW wheel bearing caps, Ford differential carrier caps, and would probably work well on Koni shocks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facom-Fa-117-B ... Sw6K1f7fJk
Does well with BMW wheel bearing caps, Ford differential carrier caps, and would probably work well on Koni shocks.