Clutch ring spacers on new clutch? - Clutch install help.

[jjwithers]

I have a R75/5 engine. Rebuilt. Flywheel lightened and installed.
The R75/5 clutch had the ($10) washer/spacers between the pressure ring and pressure plate.
I bought a new clutch kit and was told not to use those spacers with the new style pressure plate. Is that true?
I took that advice and installed the clutch plates without them.

I have a R100/7 transmission. rebuilt.
I installed the rod with the felt (with some grease on it) from the front and it did no go in too easy. The felt isn't bunched up but the rod is tight inside the tranny because of the felt. I had to lightly tap it in.

I installed the rear throwout bearings and clutch arm and spring on the back of the tranny.

Cables are not hooked up but with everything installed, the clutch arm pushed in the throwout rod and bits but they don't 'spring' back out.

I'm left scratching my head at the moment... so I figured it is time to see what you guys have to say.

-Josh

[StephenB]

I bought a new clutch kit and was told not to use those spacers with the new style pressure plate. Is that true? I took that advice and installed the clutch plates without them.

I went through the same thing earlier this month: the (forged and ribed) pressure plate has the spacers integrated so it bolts right up without them.

I installed the rod with the felt (with some grease on it) from the front and it did no go in too easy. The felt isn't bunched up but the rod is tight inside the tranny because of the felt. I had to lightly tap it in.

This is key: there should be no need to tapping in, it slits easily in and out, even with a newer felt. The new felt being "tight" is nothing compared to the spring action.

Dumb question: did you install the spring?

Go back and remove tranny and clutch, start from scratch. Pay special attention to the clutch rod going through the tranny, something's not right there with the tapping. The felt would NOT hold up against the clutch spring. If the spring is correctly installed it'll push back against a rod with a new felt easily. Maybe some sort of misalignment.

Maybe take photos of every step and post here?

[Duane Ausherman]

From the front the rod should go in easily. You may see photos of the various types of clutch parts over the years on my website.

[disston]

New clutch rod felts are too large sometimes. They may need to be trimmed a small amount so they slide in and don't bind. Roll the new felt out as flat as you can and trim a small amount from the diagonal cut making the felt fit tighter.

[jjwithers]

I ended up using the old felt. The new one was way too tight and there were no signs of it bunching up. I never knew such a little piece of fabric would cause me so much trouble.

I also re-installed the clutch to make sure i wasn't crazy.

Now the clutch arm goes in and springs out like it should, but it take some muscle to get it to do so.
I am using the R75 clutch set up. I don't think it is a heavier spring plate for i never say the markings on it that indicate it is the heavier variety.
Unfortunately, my clutch cable is delayed so I am not sure how it feels with the clutch handle attached.

-Josh

[disston]

Operating the clutch from the arm at the rear of the transmission is a difficult task. Make nothing of it. There is a mechanical advantage to using the lever on the handlebar.

Using the old felt is the option that many have chosen including myself.

[Duane Ausherman]

The springs are the same for all of the models. Back in the day, the felts went in fairly easily when new.

We had a test of the strength required to operate the clutch without the cable and hand lever. We stuck one of our hammer handles in and used it to pry against the frame. That told us if things were OK, or needed to come out again, which was very rare.