NEW here
- Steve in Golden
- Posts: 3093
- Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:30 pm
- Location: Golden, CO USA
Re: NEW here
George, your question belongs in the Post 1970 Airheads forum. The topic has been moved to that forum.
- Zombie Master
- Posts: 8821
- Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
- Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada
Re: NEW here
Welcome. I stayed in schlump for a week, a long time ago. Very nice nurse! As far as your master goes: if there is no corrosion or any damage, just rebuild it with the OEM kit. It's an easy job. The only reason to change the diameter of the master is if you want a stronger feel at the lever. You would then reduce the diameter to give more mechanical advantage. If the brake feels good the way it is, there is no reason to change. Replacing brake lines from rubber to braided steel lines can do a lot to improve braking response.
Any and all disclaimers may apply
Re: NEW here
Welcome.
Facebook keeps trying to be as cool as Boxerworks.
Chuey
Facebook keeps trying to be as cool as Boxerworks.
Chuey
Re: NEW here
• I recommend disassembly of the m/c first so you can see what you have. If there is deep scoring, or rust pits, then it will need replacement.
• The sizing on the R65 m/c bore is about right.
• If you want the bike to really stop, then do these things...
- Replace the OEM rubber brake lines with steel braided lines (generally called "stainless steel lines"), like Spiegler https://spieglerusa.com/
- Replace the old hard brake pucks in the front caliper
- Clean the caliper out very good
- Install clean fresh brake fluid, and be sure and get ALL the air out
• If you REALLY want the bike to stop, then install one of those EBC floating brake discs
You won't need more brakes that those changes will give you.
• The sizing on the R65 m/c bore is about right.
• If you want the bike to really stop, then do these things...
- Replace the OEM rubber brake lines with steel braided lines (generally called "stainless steel lines"), like Spiegler https://spieglerusa.com/
- Replace the old hard brake pucks in the front caliper
- Clean the caliper out very good
- Install clean fresh brake fluid, and be sure and get ALL the air out
• If you REALLY want the bike to stop, then install one of those EBC floating brake discs
You won't need more brakes that those changes will give you.
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !
- Zombie Master
- Posts: 8821
- Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
- Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada
Re: NEW here
Need Shmeed. WE ALWAYS WANT MORE BRAKE!Wobbly wrote: ↑Thu Sep 06, 2018 5:17 pm • I recommend disassembly of the m/c first so you can see what you have. If there is deep scoring, or rust pits, then it will need replacement.
• The sizing on the R65 m/c bore is about right.
• If you want the bike to really stop, then do these things...
- Replace the OEM rubber brake lines with steel braided lines (generally called "stainless steel lines"), like Spiegler https://spieglerusa.com/
- Replace the old hard brake pucks in the front caliper
- Clean the caliper out very good
- Install clean fresh brake fluid, and be sure and get ALL the air out
• If you REALLY want the bike to stop, then install one of those EBC floating brake discs
You won't need more brakes that those changes will give you.
Any and all disclaimers may apply
Re: NEW here
Brakes are overrated. Especially when there's a sports bike to dispatch.
Lord of the Bings
Re: NEW here
Welcome George. I rode an R65 for about 15 years. Good machine.