NEW here

Discuss all things 1970 & later Airheads right here.
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Steve in Golden
Posts: 3093
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 4:30 pm
Location: Golden, CO USA

Re: NEW here

Post by Steve in Golden »

George, your question belongs in the Post 1970 Airheads forum. The topic has been moved to that forum.
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Zombie Master
Posts: 8821
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada

Re: NEW here

Post by Zombie Master »

Welcome. I stayed in schlump for a week, a long time ago. Very nice nurse! As far as your master goes: if there is no corrosion or any damage, just rebuild it with the OEM kit. It's an easy job. The only reason to change the diameter of the master is if you want a stronger feel at the lever. You would then reduce the diameter to give more mechanical advantage. If the brake feels good the way it is, there is no reason to change. Replacing brake lines from rubber to braided steel lines can do a lot to improve braking response.
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hal
Posts: 194
Joined: Mon Aug 09, 2010 5:46 am
Location: Oslo, Norway

Re: NEW here

Post by hal »

Welcome aboard!
Hal

'74 R90/6
'97 R850R
Chuey
Posts: 7632
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:56 pm

Re: NEW here

Post by Chuey »

Welcome.

Facebook keeps trying to be as cool as Boxerworks.

Chuey
Wobbly
Posts: 300
Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: NEW here

Post by Wobbly »

• I recommend disassembly of the m/c first so you can see what you have. If there is deep scoring, or rust pits, then it will need replacement.

• The sizing on the R65 m/c bore is about right.

• If you want the bike to really stop, then do these things...
- Replace the OEM rubber brake lines with steel braided lines (generally called "stainless steel lines"), like Spiegler https://spieglerusa.com/
- Replace the old hard brake pucks in the front caliper
- Clean the caliper out very good
- Install clean fresh brake fluid, and be sure and get ALL the air out

• If you REALLY want the bike to stop, then install one of those EBC floating brake discs

You won't need more brakes that those changes will give you.
After 20 years as a professional bike mechanic and 30 years as an engineer I know just enough to be dangerous !
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Zombie Master
Posts: 8821
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:21 am
Location: Vancouver Island BC Canada

Re: NEW here

Post by Zombie Master »

Wobbly wrote: Thu Sep 06, 2018 5:17 pm • I recommend disassembly of the m/c first so you can see what you have. If there is deep scoring, or rust pits, then it will need replacement.

• The sizing on the R65 m/c bore is about right.

• If you want the bike to really stop, then do these things...
- Replace the OEM rubber brake lines with steel braided lines (generally called "stainless steel lines"), like Spiegler https://spieglerusa.com/
- Replace the old hard brake pucks in the front caliper
- Clean the caliper out very good
- Install clean fresh brake fluid, and be sure and get ALL the air out

• If you REALLY want the bike to stop, then install one of those EBC floating brake discs

You won't need more brakes that those changes will give you.
Need Shmeed. WE ALWAYS WANT MORE BRAKE!
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ME 109
Posts: 7306
Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:00 am
Location: Albury, Australia

Re: NEW here

Post by ME 109 »

Brakes are overrated. Especially when there's a sports bike to dispatch. :mrgreen:
Lord of the Bings
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Gibson
Posts: 219
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2016 11:45 am

Re: NEW here

Post by Gibson »

Welcome George. I rode an R65 for about 15 years. Good machine.
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